The primary focus of my research is to try to understand and predict the
behaviour of morphological systems in coastal seas and shorelines. It currently
involves analysis of remote video measurements of the shoreline over timescales
of days to decades and stochastic modelling of morphological changes using
simple ‘abstracted’ approaches to the underlying physical processes. I have
also begun some research into the processes responsible for mixing and dispersing
plumes of brackish water which emanate from estuaries into coastal seas
The role of 'defects' in changing bedform patterns.
Sorted bedforms are a relatively recently recognised form of morphological system in coastal seas which consist
of alternate bands of coarser and finer sediments lying transverse to a
flow. ‘Abstracted’ models show that they can evolve from an initial
well-mixed bed of sediment by a positive feedback mechanism. In collaboration with Dr
Coco of NIWA in New Zealand, we have used such a
model to show that once a bedform pattern develops in response to a set
of wave and current conditions, its ability to change when those conditions
change is dependent on the presence of ‘defects’ (joins, eyes or terminations) in
the pre-existing pattern; in the extreme case where there is a complete
absence of defects, no pattern changes can occur. This
influence of defects is likely be present in other forms of bedform
and we are currently developing other models to test this, as well as
studying in more detail exactly how this sensitivity arises. There are important
implications for predicting bedform scales and hence for predicting
flow conditions in shallow water environments.
Using video images to measure wave
breaker heights. Land-based video imaging of the nearshore
environment presents a unique opportunity to measure breaking wave
heights over long periods (up to decades). Recent research, carried out in
collaboration with the Met Office, shows that video estimates of breaking wave
heights are accurate to at least ± 30%. They can therefore provide a valuable
resource for monitoring and modelling shoreline conditions. This
research has also, however, highlighted significant problems in the current
modelling of breaking waves in the surf zone. Collaboration with researchers at
Oregon State University, USA, has begun to try to resolve these problems through
field and laboratory studies.
Mixing in estuarine plumes. Coastal water quality depends upon the mixing and
dispersion of run-off from the land and this run-off frequently reaches
the sea in the form of plumes of brackish water emanating from estuaries. We
are looking at how this brackish water mixes through detailed field
measurements and modelling. An important result so far is that the mixing, at least
in small tidally-dominated plumes, can be dominated by processes at the narrow
front separating the brackish water from the surrounding sea water. The
mixing is therefore dominated by intense narrow regions rather than distributed
widely in the coastal sea, as is often assumed. Further work is being carried
out, in collaboration with the Britannia Royal Naval College, to assess the
generality of this result through further field measurements and detailed
modelling.